A year on from the ousting of Assad

 

Damascus, Syria —
“Hold your head high, you’re a free Syrian.” The refrain of this Arabic song—now widely embraced as the unofficial anthem of a new Syria—echoes throughout Damascus. It blares from market loudspeakers, rings out during celebrations in the central square, and is even sung by the man offering traditional coffee to new arrivals at the airport.

For decades, many Syrians lived with lowered gazes under the authoritarian rule of the Al-Assad family. The regime maintained an expansive surveillance system in which the feared Mukhabarat, the intelligence network, kept the population in check. Remaining silent was often the safest choice—until the Arab Spring ignited an uprising, and Assad’s fierce response plunged the nation into a ten-year civil war.

Today, Syrians are openly and energetically marking the first anniversary of what they regard as their liberation from Assad’s government. The celebration follows a rapid rebel offensive on December 8 last year, led by former jihadist turned President Ahmed Al-Sharaa.

Returning to Damascus for the first time in 16 years, I finally set foot in the city where I was born but never truly lived. I expected the trip to bring a wave of emotion — a confrontation with a heritage I’ve been distant from for far too long. Life here has been hard for nearly everyone, both before and after Assad, as people struggle to afford electricity, food, water, and the daily essentials of a country trying to rebuild. Reuniting with my extended family in my grandmother’s home was deeply bittersweet; she passed away only three months before she could witness what once felt impossible — Syria without Assad.

A city in a triumphant mood
Once I arrived, the hardships of everyday life were immediately obvious. Yet walking through Damascus with my father, I was struck by something unexpected: an atmosphere filled not with despair, but with a surprising sense of triumph and joy.

According to the scenes described this week, many in Damascus seem to be taking a moment to savor what they view as freedom from the Assad regime’s grip. With schools and workplaces closed for a public holiday marking the anniversary, crowds poured into Umayyad Square — the city’s central gathering point — to celebrate and wave the new Syrian flag.

Others cruised through Damascus’s major streets, leaning out of car windows with flags in hand while drivers blasted their horns in excitement. A long procession of ice-cream trucks — at least 30 of them, each displaying the Syrian flag — sent bursts of fireworks into the night sky. The celebratory explosions echoed across the city until well past 2am.

Aerial footage captures a military parade in Damascus’s Umayyad Square on Monday, held to mark what is described as the first anniversary of Bashar al-Assad’s fall.
Photo: Bakr Al Kasem/Anadolu/Getty Images.

Syrian children photograph soldiers ahead of a parade by what is described as the new Syrian army, part of celebrations marking the first anniversary of the reported ousting of Bashar al-Assad’s regime in Douma, just outside Damascus, on Monday.
Photo: Omar Sanadiki/AP.

For members of the Syrian diaspora arriving in Damascus to take part in the festivities, the airport’s arrivals hall has practically transformed into a celebration zone — flags and streamers draped from the ceiling, balloon arches framing the walkways, and even a face-painting booth for children.

Out on the streets, a strong sense of patriotism was palpable, accompanied by a restrained and orderly presence from the security forces. I personally felt comfortable moving through central Damascus, even late into the night.

That impression was echoed by a group of travelers from Norway, Denmark, and Spain who had been staying at a downtown hostel for several weeks. They spoke warmly about the locals they’d met and said they were swept up by the lively, contagious mood surrounding them.

Crowds wave Syrian flags in the streets of Damascus on Monday, marking what is described as the one-year anniversary of Bashar al-Assad’s removal.
Photo: Louai Beshara/AFP/Getty Images.

Even amid the celebrations, there was a sense that the joy was temporary, a brief pause from the realities of everyday life. Al-Sharaa faces widespread skepticism over whether he can manage the daunting challenge of holding a fractured country together while attempting to build an inclusive, democratic government. Following waves of deadly sectarian conflict, Syria’s Alawite, Druze, and Christian communities remain deeply wary of his leadership.

Over the past year, Al-Sharaa has garnered significant international backing, highlighted by a landmark visit to the White House in November, where he met President Donald Trump, who has partially eased U.S. sanctions on Syria. However, until Congress fully lifts these sanctions, enabling promised investments — particularly from the Gulf states — meaningful economic progress remains uncertain.